Needless to say, the most iconic and recognisable figure of the Borderlands video game series, is the Psycho. And by extension, the most recognisable part of the Psycho is the mask.
Whilst it is possible to purchase the masks online, I have decided to make my own mask using Pepakura (Japanese Paper Craft), and then hardening it using resin.
I intend to use this blog to document the steps I am using to create my mask. The steps are as follows:
- Making the 3D model
- Cutting out
There may be several other steps to this process around the hardening, sanding and painting phases, but as I have not made it this far yet, I have no idea as to whether or not they will be needed.
Step 1 – 3D Modelling
I have a simple piece of Pepakura software installed on my computer, and you can search online for a number of models people have created for a variety of projects. I found one online years ago, and loaded into the software.
The model I chose however was designed for somebody with a much smaller face than myself, and was only going to print on 6 pages of card. I had to adjust the model and rescale upwards by a factor of 32% to create a mask in my size.
Once I had achieved this, it was time to print.
Step 2 – Printing
The next step is critical. Depending on how much work and effort you are going to put into the mask at a later stage, it is important to make the right decisions at this stage.
The following must be decided upon prior to printing:
- Card gauge
- Edge IDs
- Number of Pieces
The card gauges you decide to use make the difference between the a wearable mask, and a pile of mush. Normal paper is too thin for a mask, as it is too soft and absorbent, meaning that it will warp when you try to glue it or harden it. Meanwhile, the paper must not be too thick as to clog up your printer. I have decided to go with a 110 GSM card, which is the thickest I could buy at Staples.
Textures are also important, depending on the amount of painting you want to do after completion. As I am colour-blind, I find it difficult to match colours, I have decided to print the textures as seen in the 3D model. If you do not include the textures, you get a white page with black lines on it, without any colours or details. The primary consideration you need to make at this point is the amount of ink that this process will use. BEWARE!
Edge IDs allow you to work out which flap connects to which edge. This is like paint by numbers. As this is a simple project, there are only about 100 edges and flaps. I have therefore decided, as I also do not which to do much repainting, that I will not be printing these, but I will be using my screen as reference.
The number of pieces in the project will depend on the complexity and time it will take to cut out and assemble the mask. I have chosen this particular model, and reduced the number of initial pieces from 30 pieces to about 15. This will require more scores when assembling, but fewer cuts when cutting out.
Next up I’m going to be cutting out and gluing the pieces together.